Watching some old Kurosawa and realising that I understand the female characters’ dainty Japanese expressions ten times better than Toshirō Mifune’s manly man samurai-talk…
Category: Japan
Christmas Non-Gingerbread House
This year, I purchased and brought back a couple Muji 「 クリスマスへクセンハウス」 (no idea what “へクセン” might be, but I’m sure it’s delicious*) for everybody to enjoy… As it turns out, my dear little brothers out there in Canada had a hard time reading cooking instructions (sure: they’re written in Japanese. so what). Here is therefore the detailed recount of my own attempt at building a biscuit house, for their sake and yours.
Should you attempt to follow, it will help if you have the same awesome Muji kit handy, but an inventive and resourceful person could do without (none of the ingredients are that hard to find, and the schematics can probably be figured out from scratch with limited engineering skills). Also, this is not a completely faithful translation of the original instructions: I have added a couple personal touches as well as skipped the more obvious advices (be careful with the knife, do not stick your tongue in the oven etc.).
Anyway, off we go:
Autumn Summary
After all these years traveling, I finally completed my first ever round-the-world trip (eastward). Did not encounter any edge-of-the-world cliff anywhere. Oh well, there goes my membership to the Flat Earth Believers Association.
For one month, I lived in a house whose mere living room covered about four times the entirety of some of my previous places (ten times, if you count some of the smaller Japanese guesthouse rooms I’ve occupied in a long distant backpacker past).
Rekindled with the joys of the quasi-permanent guestlisting and realised that a VIP booth and free-flowing booze make even the least appealing parties considerably more fun.
Had one of my classiest moments, ever, documented on camera: wearing punk red wig and Bowie-inspired make-up, downing Kettle One straight from the bottle. Retrospectively explained a lot about next day’s crushing hangover.
Realised why California (/the US) was so awesome: nearly everything being illegal therefore provides endless occasions for cheap thrills to the sheltered bourgeois crowd. Walking into a banal SOMA-warehouse-turned-illegal-afterhour-club turns as exciting as entering a prohibition-era speakeasy with Al Capone.
Stuffed myself on the cheapest, bestest Indian food available outside of India on a near-daily basis. And then Suraj’s über-delicious homemade dosas.
Ate at a very hippy restaurant but couldn’t bring myself to actually ask aloud for the “I am Beautiful” dish, nor the “I am Elated”, “I am Joyful” or any of the other mushy, chakra-enhancing, tree-sodomising, touchy-feely-named items on the menu.
Partied on a luxury cruise boat with Sarah Palin and two olympic beach volleyball athletes.
Smoked hookahs on a rooftop overlooking the Embarcadero waterfront.
Spent a night of unrestrained exhilarating fun celebrating Obama’s victory. Those many bar-special “freedom shots” (aka Jameson) with Lauren and Desi: a more discutable choice. That hangover the following morning definitely didn’t taste like freedom.
Did the beer and patio thing with friends at Zeitgeist.
Sat in Dolores Park for a warm, sun-filled, November afternoon. Smoking bowls and eating baked goods from Tartine nearby.
Tried attending the premiere screening of Milk at the Castro theater, only to get turned down at the door once it appeared that way too many entrance passes had been handed out. Found solace in that people who got in before us had probably been queuing for the entire day.
Attended a house party wearing suit & French cuffs, went to a fancy James Bond-themed club event wearing flip-flops.
Visited a Moroccan whorehouse, faithfully reconstructed in our basement.
Balanced all the deliciously greasy egg-n-bacon brunches with healthy and equally delicious foods of all horizons. Had pretty damn good ceviche at La Mar, but even better one at Desi’s Poleng Lounge. Poleng became my favourite eatery in the city (get yourself there right this minute and order their lightly grilled, sea-salt edamame: you’ll never look at edamame the same way ever again).
Missed a flight (fucking iCal and its retarded handling of time zones) and decided to change my travel plans altogether.
Saw the icy blue Water Cube and the fiery red Bird Nest glowing in the chilly night.
Ate spicy bullfrog on the lakefront near Hou Hai, which incidentally tasted just like spicy chicken, only much, much harder to eat with chopsticks (small bones every-freakin-where).
Stood under the lukewarm Winter sun, watching Tien An Men square unfold to near-infinity in every direction under the watchful eye of Mao.
Wondered if China had awakened yet, as giant snappy red flags atop the mausoleum floated in a spotless blue sky.
Played some strange card game with the locals in Tian Tan park. Also that dice game I learned a couple years back in Chengdu.
Totally kawaii-ed out on a bunch of furry Chinese stray cats lounging on the outskirts of the park.
Barely contained my excitement upon speaking my first real sentences in Mandarin since I took that one class last year. Peed my pants upon realising I coud understand and answer up to three generic questions about my country of origin and occupation, to locals who ostensibly did not even know the English word for “China”. Somewhat regained composure when it appeared I could only further extend the conversation with a polite “Sorry, I don’t understand”.
Stumbled upon that plane you rode in when you went to visit your aunt in Africa, 30 years ago… the one with 4 seats on each row and a single-channel radio that you could listen to through headphones that looked like stethoscopes: China Air bought it and uses it daily for their Beijin-Tokyo flight.
Smuggled two pandas (names: ペキン and シャンハイ) to Japan, at the risk of triggering an unprecedented international crisis.
Finally realised some of my (limited) infatuation with japan subconsciously took root in a secret nerdy obsession of mine: intricacies of urban planning and transit optimisation. Just watch how most train connections in japan consist of: walking out one train, across a platform, onto a waiting and immediately departing train… and you will be wondering, as I am, if Japanese public transit planners have somehow figured the secret of NP-completeness problem-solving (Western ones certainly haven’t).
Attended a Japanese burlesque show. Really liked the cool Asian-styled choreography on some of the acts (Japanese schoolgirls doing the dragon walk, for the win). Nearly more so than all the pasty twirling and gravity-defying patriotic C-string (complete with shiny Hinomaru).
Strolled down Todai campus’ alleys: filled with little grandmas way past studying age, busy capturing the essence of bichromic autumn trees (ginkos, I believe) on watercolor. The campus cafeteria also serves a pretty mean agedashi tofu and a whole selection of hallal dishes.
Rode the Tokaido shinkansen on a two-day return trip to Kyoto for the third time in six months and started wondering about frequent riders discounts.
Saw few ducks on the banks of Ducky River, but lots of pigeons.
Wondered how the guy who could barely get his way out of valence calculations ten years ago, ended up standing in front of Kyoto University’s Graduate Scool of Biochemistry and Pharmaceuticals‘ finest, in a bid to join their rank…
Wore suits (for work or for fun) more often in 2 months than in all of the past 2 years.
Did the clubbing and morning ramen thing with friends in Shibuya.
Had one quick drink at Albatross in Omoide Yokochou and a few more in Golden Gai.
Saw photography exhibits and strolled along the river in Meguro.
Spent a day rummaging stores from Kichijoji to Harajuku and from Shibuya to Shinjuku, hunting for christmas gifts.
Came to the conclusion that Russian TV comedy is essentially centered around fat hairy men in cheap drag singing Russian covers of disco classics with funny lyrics.
Bought two bottles of Русский Стандарт and also some of that vodka that makes you go blind if you drink more than one glass at a time: gotta plan for new year’s ahead of time.
Landed in Paris and realised it was the coldest-motherfuckin-freezing place I had been to, so far this year.
…
I am currently lodged firmly under a goose-feather conforter with freshly imported Swiss chocolate at arm’s reach and not planning to move until the end of Winter.
Music Connoisseurs
Location: Hair of the Dog, Golden Gai’s one and only true punk bar.
Yi and I having a heavily inebriated wednesday evening night out, group of young Japanese boys discussing their band’s next club night on the other side of the bar, 時計じかけのオレンジ projecting to the tiny corner screen, random punk score blaring through the speakers…
Barmaid: [handing a menu-like list of all-time punk records] Please pick anything you would like to hear from that list.
Dave: Huh… let’s see… I don’t know… how about Japanese punk…?
Yi: [showing rather random entry in the list] Hey! that Japanese punk band’s called So-Do-Mu!!! Tee hee hee…
Dave: Yay for Sodomu…
Yi: Tee hee hee…
Dave: [to the barmaid] How about playing some “Sodomu”…
Barmaid: Sure, Right on its way…
[couple minutes of fumbling around the mp3 collection on the computer, then finally the track changes…]
Yi: Hey! that doesn’t sound so bad actually…
Dave: Yea, I’m not sure that part is really their own… Probably an intro of sorts…
[Young japanese guys mumbling things about ongoing music in their corner]
Young Japanese Guy #1: Blahblahblah, right?
Young Japanese Guy #2: Blahblahblah… No, I don’t think so, this must
be Chopin…Young Japanese Guy #3: Chopin? Mmmnnn… Blahblahblah…
Dave: Actually, that’s Beethoven… Moonlight sonata.
Young Japanese Guy #1: Really? Oh… maybe…
Young Japanese Guy #2: Oh yea! of course…
Young Japanese Guy #3: Definitely Beethoven!
[All three guys: swooning to Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata’s first movement, Adagio Sostenuto]
Dave: …
Dave: So yea… this is one of Tokyo’s most hardcore punk bar.
Dave: …
Nifty Japanese Input Trick
One little-known feature of the Japanese Input tools on OS X is the ability to easily access a whole lot of unicode symbols without having to go dig through the Character Palette each and every time. If you enable Japanese Input (also known as Kotoeri) on your mac, hitting a keyboard shortcut (apple-space by default, I think) will toggle kana input on and off, whereby you can type japanese words in kanas and press the spacebar to pick a matching kanji (followed by ‘enter’ to validate the transliteration).
The nifty bit comes from the availability of UTF-8 characters that are not kanji, but nonetheless useful in a lot of situations. Just as any other kanji, typing a kana sequence (usually the name of the symbol in Japanese), followed by a press of the spacebar, will automatically let you insert the desired symbol.
Note: Apparently, most of these work equally well on Windows Japanese Input system, but I haven’t tested it.
For example, any Japanese girl knows all too well how to obtain the following cutesy icons:
おんぷ[onpu] → ♬♩♪♫
ほし[hoshi] → ☆★
On a more pragmatic note, you can also choose from a very complete set of arrows:
やじるし[yajirushi] → ↑↓☝⇔ etc.
And one of my personal favourite: european currency symbols that would otherwise take half an hour to find on a standard US keyboard:
ゆーろ[yuro] → €
ぽんど[pondo] → £
Another very cool set for your scientific paper-writing needs:
すうがく[suugaku]/えんざん[enzan] → √∃∀≠±∇
Not to mention the entire greek alphabet:
あるふぁ[arufa] α
べーた[be-ta] β
がんま[ganma] γ
でるた[deruta] δ
しぐま[siguma] σ
etc. etc.
You will find even more of these in this large (albeit probably not exhaustive) list of special character shortcuts.
June in Tokyo
Keitai Pics: May Roundup
Fireworks
Shinjuku’s Don Quixote store, Sunday evening, 2:43am.
D. [handing in massive set of fireworks]: We’ll take these.
Cashier [in a bored monotonous tone]: Please remember that by Tokyo law you are not allowed to fire these in the middle of residential urban areas. Also please do not use late at night where it might disturb the peace.
D. & H. [as one person]: OF COURSE!
D. [to H.]: Oh… do we have any lighter?
H.: I don’t, do you?
D. [to cashier]: Do you sell lighters by any chance?
Cashier: Over there.
D. [grabbing one]: Great. We’ll also take this. Kthanx.
My friends want me dead.
All names, situations, health hazards and general disregard for a sane and reasonable lifestyle depicted here are entirely fictional. Any resemblance to actual persons, living, dead or soon to be, is purely coincidental.
Kai: Mosh’mosh’!!!
Dave: Shin Nakano Suicide Hotline, what may I do for you?
Kai: Dave, I know it’s you.
Dave: Barely.
Kai: Where are you? get your ass over here.
Dave: Sorry: I’m sure it’s a great party, but I think I’m gonna pass on this. I badly need some rest.
Kai: Man. Get over here. NOW.
Dave: Really, I’m sorry… I would. But all I can think about is: my bed, some hot chocolate and a good movie.
Kai: Sakamoto Ryuichi is standing less than 3 feet away from me now.
Dave: …
Kai: Get fucking a-moving.
Dave: …
Dave: Do you know how much sleep I’ve had in the past 3 days? I currently look like what a 70 year-old crack whore raped by a meth-addicted raccoon might give birth to.
Kai: Sakamoto. Ryuichi.
Dave: Oh: and I finally succeeded at dislocating entirely both shoulders at the gym tonight. I can’t raise my arms above waist-level. I would need a 3-ft long straw to drink anything from a glass.
Kai: Sakamoto Fucking Ryuichi.
Dave: I am one hour of sleeplessness away from paranoid dementia. Random acts of senseless violence cannot be too long to follow.
Kai: Sa. ka. mo. to. Ri. yu. i. chi.
Dave: You have really sworn my demise, haven’t you…
Kai: Great. Get a cab. See you in 20.
Experiencing Japanese Healthcare from Within
Aside from a brief emergency trip to an eye-specialist last Summer (literally a mom-and-pop operation, whose office was approximately half the size of my current bedroom), I have never, during my stays in Japan, been afflicted with illnesses serious enough to mandate a trip to the hospital. At least nothing that couldn’t be treated with a self-administered treatment based on quinine-rich tonic water (aptly sterilized and base-neutralized with proper dosage of gin and lime).
This morning, though, I had to check in at my neighbourhood clinic and undergo a whole series of health exams. Not that I was feeling in any particularly bad shape (nasty lingering chest cough and faint hangover from previous night’s gin&shochu outing aside), but the Japanese Ministry of Education and Research insists on making sure that I don’t have tuberculosis, cancer or bubonic plague before even considering shelling out some Yen toward my World Domination Plot research, otherwise known as PhD.
In the grand tradition of furthering cross-cultural enlightenment that has made this blog famous in the greater Shin-Nakano Sanchome area, I figured I would share some random observations about the experience: